Happy are the folks that can be found surfing on the sea. It has been enjoyed by many, king and commoner alike, but that is not the only draw to it. A lot of money can be won by competing, as well as a trophy and a much coveted title.
The oceans of Hawaii were most likely the first to see people riding the surf. What a sight it must have been for the first foreigners seeing these surfers sliding along the top and down the sides of giant waves, perched upon their long boards.
For the ancient natives of Hawaii long ago, riding the waves was, and still remains, an art and the sport of kings. Because the vast oceans are considered sacred to many of these venerable folks, there were formal ceremonies regarding the making and using of the surfboard. The kings and their court were given the right to ride the large boards which weighed less than the smaller heavier boards that the lower caste was allowed to ride.
As various outside missions spread to the islands and the happy surfers were keenly observed, the missionaries branded this act as less than desirable. They tried to make riding of surfboards forbidden to the natives. Many strangers to the land also aided the missionaries in their quest to put a stop to this activity. Kept alive by certain kings, surfing continued to flourish, despite the opposition.
On the main island of Oahu, on Waikiki Beach, there will be found a statue of a man named Duke Kahanamoku, a very popular swimmer and surfer in the early 1900's. His efforts in making and keeping surfing alive by travelling the worlds beaches and giving demonstrations was instrumental in its continued acceptance.
The winter weather on Hawaiian shores, especially Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach and the Pipeline Beach on Oahu produces some of the most fantastic waves in the world. This brings to the islands world class competitions, such as the Pipeline Master's Competition. These athletic meetings sometimes result in the death of surfers, taking on the horrendous waves found there. That however, does not seem to deter the competitors.
After putting in your time and taking your lumps learning how to ride a surfboard, it might be something you feel you were born to do. It may seem like forever, but when you have finally conquered gravity and have managed to stay on your board, it might be hard to ignore the waves from then on. If your travels take you near a beach, looking for a local surfing rental shop might just be the highest thing on your priorities for the day.
Rebecca McKeich lives with her husband and son in Palm Beach County, FL. She and her family are true beach lovers in their own right. With her website http://www.oceanstyles.com, she offers classic and contemporary beach decor items to decorate any coastal themed home.
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